Shoe



Sept. 24, 1940. c5. GRUNDMAN SHOE Filed June 18, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet l I N VEN TOR.

g '1. mkael Q Grandma A TTORNEYS.

Sept. 24. 1940. G GRUNDMAN 2,215,924

SHOE

Filed June 18, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 AMZekwZ 61 Grandma INVEN TOR.

j BY A TTORNEYS.

Patented Sept. 24, 1940 snon Michael G. Grandma-n. Vincennes, Ind. Application June 18, 1938, Serial No. 214,554

Thm invention relates to shoes and to a new and improved method of making the same.

An object of the invention is to provide a shoe of inexpensive construction the upper of which has its toe portion rounded and formed with a central inturned seam, said upper being lined throughout and the lining being so positioned with respect to the inturned edges of the seam as to leave a smooth and comfortable inner surface.

Another object is to provide a shoe the lining of which does not extend to the edge of the sole but is concealed by the edges of the upper where they meet the sole.

A still further object is to provide a tongue of new and novel construction so mounted as to permit a smooth and attractive connection with the quarter.

Another object is to so shape the lining at the heel or counter part of the shoe as to make the shoe less bulky at that point than otherwise, this special constructionresulting in saving of material, a better appearing shoe, and a shoe which will wear better by permitting direct contact with the counter by the wearer.

Another object is to so construct the shoe that the heel portion thereof can first be shaped to the heelof the wearer prior to the attachment of the upper to the outer sole. I

with the foregoing and other objects in view which will appear as the description proceeds, the invention resides in certain novel details oi construction and combinations of parts and in certain steps of the method hereinafter more fully described and pointed out in the claim, it being understood that changes may be made in the construction and inthe steps of the method without departing from the invention as claimed. In the accompanyingdrawings the preferred form of the invention has been shown.

In said drawings Figure 1 is 'a plan view of a shoe constructed in accordance with the present invention.

Figure 2 is. aside elevation oi the toe portion thereof.

Figure 3 is a section on line 8-4, Figure 1. Figure 4 is a section on line 4-4, Figure 1. Figure 5 is a section on line 5-5, Figure l.

FigureBisaviewofablankcuttoformanv upper and having a lining member applied thereto, the lining being partly concealed.

Figure 7 is a view showing the opposite side of the blank illustrated in Figure -6.

Figure 8 is avplan view of a tongue blank.

Figure 9 is 'a plan view of another form of tongue blank.

In carrying out the invention two uppers are cut to form rights and lefts. Each upper i has its back edge 2 shaped so'that when the corresponding edges of the two uppers are ioined'at the back, they will be fitted snugly to the heel 5 of the wearer. The-forward or vamp portion Set the upper has its bottom edge 4 curved upwardly and the top edge ii of the vamp is curved downwardly from the top edge of the quarter 6, .the curvatures being such that when two quarters are joined together at the edges 4 and 5, they will give the correct toe width and curvature and also the correct'top curvature of the vamp to properly flt the last. It will be noted that the blank is-formed with an oifset I at the upper end 15 of the vamp edge 5 so that the upper edge-oi the quarter terminates below the edge 5. Thisfis clearly shown in Figure 6.

A lining 3 of any suitable material is cemented to the inner surface of the upper I and has the edges 9 and ill at the bottom thereof and alon the upper toe portion spaced inwardly fromfthe corresponding edges of the upper blank I. The back portion of the lining 8 is cut awayat Ii so as to permit the counter of the shoe to be exposed with the lining extending therearound. In addition to the upper blank and the linings thereon, there is provided a tongue one form of which is shown at I! in Figure 8. This tongue can be of any desired width and length and is provided, atone end, with an integral tab ll of any desired configuration, there being opposed alining slots l4 extending into the tab so as to leave a connecting web Ii therebetween the width of which is substantially equal to the width of the opening in the top of the shoe at the offset I. If desired, however, the tongue can be formed as shown in Figure 9 where the tab It, at its broadest point where loining tongue I1 is of substantially the same width as the shoe opening at the oflset I.

In addition to the parts thus far described the shoe of coursecomprises the outer sole it, the inner sole II, and the counter 20.

In forming the shoe it is intended to make the counter 20 of a high grade of leather which can be contacted by the foot of the wearer without causing discomfort. It is intended to mold or shape this counter so as to tilt properly to the heel of the wearer and the curvature of the back edges 2 of the uppers is such that when they are inturned and stitched together, they will form a heel portion which will'lie snugly against the counter.

Following the shaping of the upper blanks and the application of the linings to the blanks as already explained, said blanks are joined along the back edges 2- as stated, the linings are trimmed away from the top edges of the quarters, and said blanks then inturned at the edges l and sewed together to form an intumed seam as indicatedat 2 l. This seam will occupy and fill the space between the adjacent edges of the linings B so that the inner surfaces of the linings and the inner edges of the seam will cooperate to provide a smooth inner shoe surface free from projecting portions which might cause discomfort to the wearer.

The tab iii of tongue H or the tab I3 of tongue 12 is then stitched to the vamp. If tab I6 is used, it is placed on top of the vamp and stitched thereto so that the point thereof will extend over the inturned seam 2| while thebroad end of the tab will terminate at the offset 1, Here the broad portion of the tongue will be put under the quarters as shown by dotted lines in Figure 1 or, if the tongue I2 is used, the tab I3 is stitched onto the vamp and will extend laterally onto the vamp while the web l5 will be tucked into the shoe opening at the offset portion I and tongue I2 thus permitted to lie under the quarters.

It will be noted that sembled, the linings will extend up to and along the top and front side edges of the counter 20. These edges can either extend between the corresponding edges of the counter and the blanks l or they can terminate at the edges of the counter, as preferred. In either case the thick, bulky constructureheretofore present where the lining has covered the counter, is avoided and as the counter is made of a good quality of leather, it will provide a comfortable contact for the heel of the wearer.

when the uppers are asthus avoiding the objectionable appearance resulting should they extend to the extreme edges of the article. While the improvement herein described has been shown combined with a two-piece upper, it is to be understood that they can also be used with uppers made of more than two pieces.

It will be noted that 'by rounding the toe portion of the vamp, the vamp can be made shorter than would otherwise be possible. By offsetting the vamp as indicated at 7, the tongue can lie smoothly inside the shoe even though the front or tab portion is fastened to the outer surface.

What is claimed is:

A shoe including connected upper blanks, linings secured to the inner surfaces of the upper blanks and terminating inwardlyfrom but along lines parallel with the lower edges of the upper blanks, an in-sole, an outer sole, said in-sole terminating inwardly from and along lines parallel with the outer edges of the outer sole, the edge portions of the lining being in contact with the edge portion of the in-sole and the edge portions of the upper blanks being in contact with the edge portions of the outer sole, thereby to extend over and beyond the lining, and stitching extending through the lining and through the upper blanks, the in-sole and the outer sole for holding the same together, said stitching being in a single row.

MICHAEL G. GRUNDMAN. 

